衣裳

聖人所以制衣服何? 以為絺紘蔽形，表德勸善，別尊卑也。

所以名為裳何? 衣 耆、隱也，裳者、鄣也。所以隱形自鄣閉也。《易》曰:"黃帝、堯、舜垂衣裳而天 下治。"

何以知上為衣，下為裳?以其先言衣也。《詩》曰:"褰裳涉溱。"所以合為 衣也。《弟子職》言"摳衣而降"也。名為衣何? 上兼下也。

[裘、所以佐女工助溫也]。

[古者緇衣羔裘]，[黃衣狐裘]。

[禽獸眾多]，獨以(羔裘)[狐羔]何? 取[其]輕煖，因狐死首丘，明君子不忘本也。 羔 者、取[其]跪乳遜順也。故天子狐白，諸侯狐黃，大夫[狐]蒼，士羔裘，亦因別尊卑也。

所以必有紳帶[者]，示謹敬自約整[也]。繢繪為結於前，下垂三分，身 半，紳居二焉。

[男子]必，有鞶帶者，示有[金革之]事也。

所以必有佩者，[表德見所能也]。[故循道無窮則佩環]，[能本道德則佩 琨]，[能決嫌疑則佩玦]。[是以見其所佩]，[即知其所能]蜜。《論語》曰: "去喪無所不佩。"

天子佩白玉，諸侯佩(山)玄玉，大夫佩水蒼玉，士佩璜璜石。佩 即象其事。若農夫佩其耒耜，工匠佩其斧斤，婦人佩其針縷，[亦佩玉也]。

何以知婦人亦佩玉?《詩》云:"將翱將翩，佩玉將將。彼美孟姜，德音不忘。"

XXXVII. Robes

222---General Remarks (IV A. 4b-5a).

a. Why did the Sages institute [the wearing of] robes? In order that by the cloth ¹ the [bodily] forms should be covered, and the spiritual power [of the wearer] be displayed; it is to encourage the capable, and to distinguish between the high and the lowly.

b. Why [are robes] called i-shang? ²I means yin 'to conceal'; shang means chang 'to screen' ³. With [the robes] the [bodily] forms are concealed, and one screens and shuts oneself off [from shame]. The I says: "Huang-ti, Yao, and Shun [sat] with robes hanging down, and all under Heaven was well-governed" ⁴.

c. How do we know that the upper [garments] are called i, and the lower shang? Because the first [part of the] expression is i. The Shih says: "I will lift my lower garments, and wade the [river] Chên" ⁵. With [the upper garments they are] connected to form the lower [garments]. The Ti tzŭ chih [,however,] says: "They gathered their 'garments' i, and descended" ⁶; why are they named i [here, whereas the lower garments were meant]? The [mentioning of the] upper includes the lower.

223---Fur (IV A. 5a).

a. The fur ⁷ is the additional [dress to the common ones] made by the handiwork of women, in order to increase the warmth.

b. Anciently, with black upper-garments the fur of a lamb [was worn], and with yellow upper-garments the fur of a fox ⁸.

c. Since there are so many [species of] animals, why [did they] only [use the fur of] a fox and a lamb? To profit by its being light and warm. [Besides, the fox's fur was used] because a dying fox turns its head towards the hill [where it was born] ⁹; meaning that a Noble Man never forgets his origin. [So the fur of] a lamb was used because it kneels down when it sucks [,which indicates] respect and obedience ¹⁰. Therefore, when the Son of Heaven [wears] white fox [-fur], the Feudal Lord yellow, the great officer dark, and the common officer lamb's fur, it is also for the sake of the distinction between the high and the lowly.

224---The Girdle (IV A. 5a).

a. The reason why a sash ¹¹ must [be worn] is because it expresses [an attitude of] respect and self-constraint. The silk [girdle] is tied on the front [with slips] hanging down [,and it is divided into] three parts, halfway down the body the sash forming two [slips] ¹².

b. The reason why a man wears a leather girdle ¹³ is to indicate that he is concerned with [the use of weapons of] metal and leather.

225---Pendants (IV A. 5b-6a).

a. The reason why pendants must be used is to make manifest one's spiritual power and to show one's abilities. Therefore: he who follows the Way without end wears the pendant huan, he who can base himself on the spiritual power [proceeding from his possession] of the Way wears the pendant kun, he who can decide [in affairs that are] perplexing and ambiguous wears the pendant chüeh¹⁴. This is the reason why, seeing what a man wears as his pendant, one can known his capacities. The Lun yü says: "After the period of mourning he wears all his pendants [again]" ¹⁵.

b. The Son of Heaven has pendants of white jade, the Feudal Lords of dark jade, the great officer of water-green jade, the common officer of the juan-min stone ¹⁶. Thus the pendants re- present one's occupation: the farmer wears as pendants his plough and hoe, the carpenter his hatchet and axe, the woman her needles and thread, [though] she also wears jade pendants.

c. How do we know that the woman also wears pendants of jade? The Shih says: "We will roam, we will ramble, her girdle-gems tinkle, that beautiful Eldest Lady Chiang, her reputation will never be forgotten" ¹⁷.